Nina Warmerdam is a Fashion graduate from the Netherlands currently based in London. Nina is an amazing illustrator and simply oozes class in her designs. By talking to Nina for just a minute or so, you can tell how tuned in she is about what she does and what she wants to do. The world is yours Nina!

Monday Morning
Hi Nina. You graduated last year from Fashion Institute Arnhem. Tell us a bit about your graduate womenswear collection..

Nina Warmerdam
Well, what started the research for this collection, was an old photograph by Helmut Newton of a woman hanging on a trapeze naked. I was immediately fascinated by the shapes and lines that appeared on her body caused by the tension from hanging on the trapeze, and the contrast between the soft / feminine side and the raw tension stayed in my mind.

While I started draping, I kept experimenting with shapes and cut-outs around the armpit, because it is a part of the women’s body that is usually ignored and hidden, and the shape research gave me new, interesting ideas.

Besides that, I was also inspired by African mask-looking pieces created by Canadian artist Brian Jungen, made entirely out of Nike Air Jordan sneakers. I loved the primitive feeling it had, and was interested by the classical sportswear detailing.
I integrated a sportswear influence into the final pieces, translated both in fabric and colour.

For example, I created new fabrics by melting together high-end fabrics with classical sportswear fabrics, such as a crêpe wool and a rubber jersey.
The finishings are also very raw, and the use of bold colours contributed to the primitive side of the collection.

Altogether, the collection is about strong, feminine shapes and primitive rawness, while focussing on sides of the body that are unusual and fresh.

Monday Morning
Your influences resulted in a collection which is strong, bold and graphic yet doesn’t deny the wearer of her femininity. How have you moved on from the climax of making a graduate collection to continuing your independent fashion work?

Nina Warmerdam
The process of developing the graduation collection has been a great learning experience for me. It was the first time I executed a cohesive, full collection, so along the way the ups and downs have taught me alot about myself and the way I work best.

After graduation I took some time to update my portfolio and figure out what was next for me. I wanted to increase my (technical) skills and gain more experience, so I did an internship in London. Yet, I always kept working on personal work, whether it was fashion or illustrations.

I am currently in the process of designing a new collection, which I find very exciting and thrilling.
Still, there’s always more to learn, so right now I think I would like to either do an MA next year, or get back into the industry!

Monday Morning
Sounds exciting, can you tell us a bit about the collection your are working on now?

Nina Warmerdam
Yes, it’s called “PREY”, and for this collection I did lots of research on hunting: the clothes, the atmosphere, the old and the new. I found these amazing old pictures with people wearing the most interesting jackets with special cuts, and websites filled with the latest modern technological huntingwear. There are so many amazing things they create nowadays, it really blew my mind.

After that I took certain aspects of the research and evolved these by draping, experimenting with them, so new shapes were created. It was important to me to combine the “hunting” side of the collection with a more feminine, classical touch. However, the accessories I designed do have a very litteral reference to huntingwear.

You have graduated as part of a new generation of designers who are having an especially hard time funding their work during these hard economic times. Has this hindered or helped your attitude towards your work in any way?

I think it is never particularly easy in this industry to fund, however I think you have to approach it with a lot of positivity. The best thing about these economic times is that it is forcing everyone to be creative, and look for new ways to get something done. I guess in my case, it only made me want to try harder and do the best I can.
What I find very nice to see, is that because of the current situation, a lot of collectives of designers are rising: people come together and take on the industry as a group, so they have a better shot to showcase their work, it’s fun and good to see!

Monday Morning
Best of luck for the new collection Nina, lastly, where can we see your work?

Nina Warmerdam
You can see it on http://ninawarmerdam.blogspot.com, and some of it is up on http://www.notjustalabel.com/ninawarmerdam!

Interview by Elena Picone.